Featured image: Olivia Taberner and Adomas Lukas Petrauskas

From Arc’teryx raincoats to mud-clogged Salomons, we explore how outdoor garments have evolved from fashion trends to functional wear – bringing together communities of young men in the process.

What began as a Patagonia jacket and a sunrise ambition soon turned into getting “battered at 3am by the wind” – something Manchester Met student Edan Morton didn’t have in mind.

“I was hiking Snowdon with my best mate Oscar. We hiked up in the evening, camped out near the top and watched an amazing sunset. We got up at 3am and walked to the summit just in time for the sunrise. It was one of the most beautiful and memorable experiences of my life!” Which perhaps wouldn’t have been the case if it weren’t for the right fashion staple.

It all started with a techwear rabbit hole, leading Edan to discover a style associated with hiking and outdoor gear – Gorpcore. Standing for “Good ol’ Raisins and Peanuts,” this style inspired a generational trend of environmentally-friendly fashion pieces, pushing young people into their local high grounds.

“I got really into trainers at first; my Salomons were my favourite,” says Morton, reflecting on how the fashion brand re-discovered its intended purpose. “Fashion made hiking more accessible for me. I started going on walks with friends during lockdown, and I was very lucky to live in Sheffield, so I was close to the Peak District.”

Amassing 125 million posts under #Gorpcore on TikTok, a fashion army addicted to waterproofs and duck-down puffers was not predicted for square-eyed Gen Zers, more accustomed to life in a virtual world built from pixelated blocks, as opposed to walking in the hills.

It seems young people actually want to go on walks nowadays, and the forced camping trips with family or being dragged around Mountain Warehouse to get your Duke of Edinburgh kit seem to be a thing of the past. Now this equipment is being put to actual use! Ed Linton, a fellow fashion fanatic passionate about hiking, pushed himself to the extreme to experience the outdoors, from cold plunges on Snowdonia to skiing black runs at the French ski resort at Morzine. 

“I have mates who got into the outdoors because of fashion,” he says. “I like the sustainability aspect. Patagonia is known for using recycled materials. The most important rule when exploring the outdoors is to leave no trace. Without the rise in popularity of outdoor fashion, brands wouldn’t be able to experiment with sustainable materials at their current rate.”

For many like Ed, going outdoors and ‘touching grass’ was not on their teenage agenda, but it was the fashion that enticed him. Being ‘steezy’ in the pub with Nike ACG fleeces, Maharishi parachute pants and Montbell puffers wasn’t as satisfying as putting the clothes to use.

Edan says the versatility in these fashion trends is what he finds attractive: “The jackets and trousers are extremely practical for outdoor activity but they also look good and can be worn day to day. I think it also needs to be remembered that you don’t need a £500 jacket to enjoy the outdoors.

“You can throw on an old pair of trainers, buy a £5 waterproof from the charity shop, get a meal deal and enjoy the outdoors for the day, as well as the physical and mental benefits it offers.” The mental health element of spending time outdoors and getting physical exercise is unquestionably important. Ed says: “We would go on a weekly family walk. My dad was adamant about it as it gave us an opportunity to clear our heads and catch up. He would often say it was to ‘clear the cobwebs.’”

Walking communities have become a haven for young, fashion-conscious men like Edan and Ed, helping to open up a conversation about men’s mental health – a stigma that affects many.  According to the Priory Group, 77% of men polled have experienced symptoms of anxiety, stress or depression, with 29% of those saying they are “too embarrassed” to speak about it, according to campaign group Let’s Talk About Suicide.

“It’s enabled my group of friends to keep seeing each other regardless of where we are in our lives,” says Edan. “Sometimes one of us may not be drinking or wanting to stay out late, so it gives the opportunity to still see each other in a healthy and enjoyable way.”

Feeling isolated is common for many studying at uni, something that resonates with Edan. “My mental health is always something that I have struggled with, for most of my teenage and adult life. I think it’s so important that it’s talked about so all men know that there is someone who will listen and be there for them if they are struggling. So they know they are not alone.”

In recent years, walking collectives and wellness walks have surged on social media. Groups such as Common Ground, based in the north, have become regular visitors to the Peak District. Every year on World Mental Health Awareness Day, Common Ground hosts a high-profile wellness walk in collaboration with fashion brands like ASICS, priding themselves on raising awareness of the benefits of keeping active.

Being a student in Manchester puts hiking on your doorstep, says Edan. “I’ve done a lot of walking in the Peaks since moving to Manchester. I’ve tried getting out as much as possible, doing walks around Edale, Glossop and Bakewell.”

But how did hikes in the Peak District become a movement for increasing mental wellbeing for young men? Former Manchester Met academic Yuhei Inoue, now a University of Illinois Professor of Sport Management explored this in research published in Social Science and Medicine. People going to the gym together developed a sense of improved wellbeing, he found.

“This wasn’t necessarily just about exercise but about the social relationship people develop. People feel they’re part of the community and they feel connected.” Yuhei says this could be translated into how fashion is creating a community of people who started out wearing outdoor clothes and are now putting them to their intended use: “There will be a benefit for their health and well-being, particularly if they feel connected. Fashion is an important source of identity, a common identity that can promote a sense of belonging to the community and group.”

Edan agrees: “The outdoors feels like a very safe space, so those conversations usually come naturally without any judgment. I think any community that allows men to be open and honest is a place to break down the stigma surrounding men’s mental health and it’s great that the walking community is becoming one of these places.” Ed adds: “People are so engrossed with being online, it’s unhealthy. Every opportunity to be outside with your mates is a chance to be honest and open.”

With social media screen time averaging 28 percent of our day, our already lonely generation  may be more digitally connected but is definitely more socially disconnected.

Wearing your Arcteryx raincoat in the shower to make the purchase worthwhile is a sham of the past. Instead of clubbing or living online, young men are foregoing nights out in favour of catching sunrises at the Peak District.

Students in Manchester are reconnecting with nature and each other, and we have Gorpcore to thank for it, and a community based on walking in the physical world will do wonders for male mental health.