Dupe Culture

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Why isn’t anyone wearing real shoes anymore?

Dupes and fakes have become omnipresent in the sneaker sphere. Seemingly inescapable – whether from fresh buys or resellers – fake merchandise has made a silent and insidious entrance and shows no signs of leaving.

“If you were to ask me this question two years ago, I’d say there was a big difference,” says 20-year-old sneaker reseller and streetwear expert Luis Wilson, who runs a second-hand sneaker business called SShucho. “However, now, with the fakes that are coming out, I’d say the difference really isn’t big – and it’s quite scary to be honest.” The fake shoe phenomenon has evolved from cheap, obvious imitations to near carbon copies that are often indistinguishable from the real thing.

The UK government found that around 24% of UK consumers knowingly purchased counterfeit goods, of which footwear was a sizable portion. Fake footwear made up 37% of counterfeit cases in 2024 and 2025. It’s official: fakes have gone mainstream.

Young consumers dominate the counterfeit shoe market, with young men aged 18 and 33 making up the majority of the consumer base. However, regardless of age, men are increasingly encouraged to buy fake shoes by influencers. According to a GOV.UK survey, 24% of men aged 16 to 60 have purchased fake shoes because of online creators. Despite being illegal, and decades of social shame surrounding counterfeit shoes, some sneakerheads are ditching the shame that once came with fakes.

“This group is deeply embedded in sneaker culture – drops, hype, resale, identity,” says Sian Vance, a Lecturer in Fashion Communication at Manchester Metropolitan University. To Vance, there is a direct connection to gender roles and counterfeits. “I think there’s a strong link to [young men] purchasing fakes, which links to masculinity, status and competition.”

When many feel obligated to present a falsely positive version of their lives online through social media, real brands are taking a backseat to counterfeit alternatives – ones that offer cultural clout without breaking the bank.

“I think there has been a surge of popularity in not just shoes, but counterfeit clothing across social media,” says 25-year-old shopper Olly Roberts, who says he has witnessed encouragement and acceptance towards buying and owning fake garments.

“I buy fake versions of shoes because I have found that the prices of trainers have generally shot up and up over the last five to ten years,” Roberts explains. “At a time where cost of living is high, it makes financial sense to buy trainers that have little to no sacrifice in quality, but a huge cut on the price tag. It allows me to buy three to four, sometimes more, pairs of shoes I like for the same price as one genuine pair.”

However, the issue with counterfeit goods may not solely lie with consumers. Major footwear brands such as Adidas, Nike and New Balance have faced criticism for declining product quality and ballooning costs at the till. Sneaker prices are reported to have risen by 25% since 2019. For example, a standard Nike Dunk was around £60 in 2000 but now roughly retails for closer to £110 a pop. Meanwhile fans complain of cheaper materials and inconsistent quality.

“There is definitely a difference in quality coming from the big brands nowadays,” says Wilson. “Whether that’s with the leather or the colour of the sneaker. Many times I’ve had a sneaker that has come from the official site and it’s either creased or there’s some dye running. It’s disappointing, especially when I compare them to pairs I own from the early 2000s – it’s a big difference.”

Market research company Mintel concluded that consumers prioritise “quality and affordability” when it comes to footwear, meaning rising prices and declining quality run counter to what buyers want. This has driven 78% of UK consumers towards second-hand retailers in search of better value and older, higher quality products of bygone years.

Disillusionment with the industry may also be pushing some customers towards counterfeits, a trend which has increased year on year since 2023. Vance points to sociologist Thorstein Veblen’s work on “conspicuous consumption” – the idea that people purchase luxury goods and services to display social status.

“It’s an old theory that feels more relevant than ever,” she says. “People buy to be seen and to signal status and that’s never really gone out of fashion. Trainers are perfect for this: visible, recognisable and culturally loaded.”

Vance also highlights the ethical concerns surrounding counterfeit production. According to government findings, “poor labour conditions” are the second most common reason people avoid purchasing counterfeit items. While the awareness of poor working conditions for garment manufacturers is rising among young men – with 63% of young people expressing concern – there remains a serious say-do gap, with only one in six being able to name a sustainable alternative.

Wilson, despite being within the core demographic of counterfeit buyers, takes a different approach to shoe consumption. As the owner of a second-hand shoe business of his own, he hopes to change the conversation around sneakers, streetwear and second-hand shopping.

“If you can’t afford the real thing – which I know a lot of us can’t – look for a different style or brand that’s more cost effective. There’s nothing wrong with that,” he says.

There are plenty of options, according to Wilson. “You can go outlet shopping, which is often good value, or go to independent brands who are looking to get their name out there.” Above all, he hopes for improvements in quality above all else: “I’d like to see big brands caring more about what they sell to their customers, rather than just profiting from them.”

Vance concludes: “There is space (or at least there is demand) for [dupes] – and brands are well aware of it… It’s almost like they’re reclaiming the narrative: we’ll imitate the imitators, but make it luxury.”